How to Select Your Rene Herse Tires

How to Select Your Rene Herse Tires

Selecting Rene Herse tires for your bike is easy, because our program is logical and simple. It’s all based on performance. We started making tires because we wanted to ride high-performance tires on the gravel roads of the Cascade Mountains. We came from a decade of racing on hand-made tubulars on the road and in cyclocross, and we wanted the same feel and performance in wide clinchers for our adventures.

Back then, wide tires existed, but they were heavy touring tires. When you come from 240 g tubulars, it’s hard to fall in love with 600+ g tires! It wasn’t just the weight, the thick casings and heavy rubber coatings made these tires sluggish and slow. So we decided to make our own tires. We started out with the most supple high-performance tires and developed them into wide tires that are strong enough for everyday use.

Even today, most ‘gravel’ tires are still based on touring tires. They still weigh 450+ grams even in the narrower sizes, and they still have stiff casings. To make their tires more exciting, many makers offer a myriad of different tread patterns. The idea of a specific tire for each condition may appeal to techies, but the truth is that small changes in knob shape don’t change how a tire performs. More than one tire engineer has told me: “Those knob shapes are all about style.” To most riders, it just makes choosing tires needlessly complicated, when they all perform more or less the same, because they all have the same casings.

Why doesn’t everybody use high-performance casings? It’s not just that they are expensive, but they are also too fragile for use in factories that are churning out millions of tires for OEM use. True high-performance tires have to be hand-made. And the factories that make most ‘gravel’ tires aren’t equipped for that.

Beyond that, there is proprietary technology in our Rene Herse tires that makes them lighter than most, without making them paper-thin. We don’t make event tires, but high-performance tires for everyday riding. It’s all about choosing the right compromises, and it’s the result of more than a decade of experience with this type of tire. Each new Rene Herse model incorporates new technology, and the old ones are updated from time to time to remain ahead of the pack.

So how do you select the right Rene Herse tires for your bike? We offer a lot of different models, because each fills a different need. That makes it easy to choose your tires. Here’s how to find the right tire for your bike and your riding style.

Step 1: Wheel Size

Rene Herse tires are available in the three popular wheels sizes (700C/29″, 650B/27.5″, 26″), giving you choices no matter what wheels you have on your bike.

Step 2: All-Road or Dual-Purpose Knobby

We offer just two tread patterns, because they cover 99% of the conditions you’ll encounter on your rides. All our tire treads are black, because black rubber offers the best traction and wear resistance.

If you ride mostly on pavement, the choice is easy: Our all-road tread pattern has fine ribs that interlock with the road surface and offer superior grip, especially in wet conditions. We also recommend our all-road tread for most gravel roads, where rocks sliding on other rocks limit your grip, and tread patterns make little or no difference. Ted King rode our Snoqualmie Pass tires in the Unbound gravel race across the Flint Hills of Kansas without any problems.

If you prefer more tread for loose conditions, and especially if you may encounter mud or even snow on your rides, choose our dual-purpose knobbies – even if a significant part of your rides are on pavement. We’ve designed our knobs so that they roll smoothly and don’t squirm: Our knobbies offer close to the same speed and cornering grip on pavement as our class-leading all-road tires. And our newest knobbies even use noise cancellation technology to make them quieter than you’d ever think a knobby could be. Despite their excellent on-pavement performance, the big knobs are widely spaced, so they grip tenaciously when other tires start sliding.

Since the performance envelopes of our two tire treads overlap, you can’t really go wrong. We know riders who’ve taken their Rene Herse knobbies on all-paved brevets to qualify for Paris-Brest-Paris, and we’ve taken the smooth all-road tires on some pretty extreme adventures. You’ll be fine in most conditions on either tread pattern.

Step 3: Choose your tire size

Rene Herse tires are available in widths between 26 and 55 mm. Can’t decide on a size? We usually recommend the widest tires you can easily fit on your frame. Not sure how wide a tire will fit? Check out our post about how to measure your frame’s tire clearances.

Still not sure? Don’t sweat it: The supple casings of Rene Herse tires have a bigger impact on ride quality and performance than a few millimeters in width. When in doubt which of two sizes will fit your bike, go with the smaller size. Better to have a little extra clearance than a tire that rubs. If you find that you have extra clearance, you can always size up when your tires wear out.

Step 4: Choose your casing

This is where you’ll make the biggest difference in the performance and feel of your bike. Most of us around here ride Extralights – there’s nothing else like them, and once you’ve ridden them, you won’t want to ride anything else. We ride them on some pretty rough terrain, too. Thanks to their greater widths and lower pressures, there is much less risk of slashing a sidewall than you might think. Lauren de Crescendo won SBT GRVL and Gravel Worlds on Extralights.

The Standard casing is a great all-round option, with the supple performance and great ride that has made our tires famous. The threads that make up the casing are a little thicker than the super-fine Extralights, which makes them a little more durable and also more economical. They’re still plenty fast – our Bon Jon Pass Standard scored fourth-fastest of all tires that TOUR magazine has ever tested.

If you get too many flats on your rides, or if you’re heading into rough terrain, we recommend our Endurance casing. It uses the same ultra-fine threads as our Extralight, but in a denser weave for greater durability, plus with an extra protection layer that wraps around the sidewalls and tread. It’s still a high-performance tire, as evidenced by its weight: Our Endurance tires are lighter (and more supple) than the ‘light and supple’ casings from other makers.

The Endurance Plus is a true adventure tire. It’s one of the toughest tires you’ll find this side of a downhill mountain bike tire. It’s the tire you choose when you are heading into the unknown, where a slashed tire would mean walking for days until you reach civilization. It’s still remarkably light and speedy for such an ultra-tough tire.

That’s all there is to choosing your Rene Herse tires. It’s simple and logical. Of course, there are always more questions…

What about combining knobby front tire with smooth rear tire?

This makes sense on mountain bikes: When you ride technical terrain, you need to turn the handlebars suddenly, and front tire traction is crucial. By comparison, the rear tire turns much less sharply and on a larger radius, so it doesn’t need as much traction. On last year’s Solstice Ride, there was a lot of technical singletrack, so Ryan ran a knobby on the front.

On gravel roads, you’re going too fast to turn the handlebars sharply. When cornering at speed, you need as much traction on the rear as on the front, so there’s less reason to mix-and-match different tread patterns.

We’ve made our knobby and all-road models in the same widths, so you can mix-and-match them. (The 42 mm Hurricane Ridge knobby is a tad narrower than the 44 mm Snoqualmie all-road tire, so the two fit into the same space, even on frames with limited clearance.)

For general riding, should I chose the Endurance casing?

Not necessarily. The Endurance is a great choice, but if you don’t get many flats, and the terrain where you ride isn’t littered with sharp rocks, the Standard or even the Extralight are great tires with a more lively feel. Personally, I’ll take the Extralights almost anywhere, whether it’s the all-paved 1200 km Paris-Brest-Paris or the ultra-tough Otaki 100 km Mountain Bike Race (above).

Which Rene Herse models are tubeless-compatible?

All current-production Rene Herse tires that are 35 mm or wider are tubeless-compatible (except 650B x 38 Loup Loup Pass). They also carry ‘TC’ in their name, and they are marked ‘tubeless-compatible’ on the package.

Which Rene Herse casing sets up easiest tubeless?

There are many variables that affect how easily a tire sets up tubeless. The most important is the rim diameter, which can vary quite a bit even among the same model of rim. I’ve set up many Extralights tubeless without running into trouble – and I don’t even have a compressor, just a standard floor pump (and, when I travel, just a mini-floor pump). That said, the extra protection layer of the Endurance and Endurance Plus also makes these tires easier to set up tubeless. Make sure to check out our illustrated how-to instructions before you set up your tires. There are some tricks that make it much easier to set up supple tires tubeless.

Why is the 44 mm Snoqualmie Pass lighter than the 38 mm Barlow Pass?

Excellent question! The 38 mm Barlows are already quite light at 350 g for the Extralight, but the 44 mm Snoqualmies are true featherweights at 330 g. That is lighter than many narrow ‘racing’ tires.

Here’s the reason for the weight difference: The 38 mm Barlows are our widest ‘narrow’ tires. So their tread is a little thicker in the center to improve the durability. The 44 mm Snoqualmies are our narrowest ‘wide’ tires. Since the wear is spread over a larger area, the center tread doesn’t need to be as thick as on the narrower tires. And when we designed the Snoqualmies, we were thinking specifically of gravel racers like Ted King and Lauren de Crescenzo (above), who won SBT GRVL and Gravel Worlds our Snoqualmie Pass tires. So we made them a little lighter and even faster than our other tires. The difference is small, but if you can fit the Snoqualmies, you’ll love the ride!

Photo credits: Nick Keating (Photo 1), Toru Kanazaki (Photo 12).

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Comments (39)

  • Lucas

    Jan, are there any plans to make the Stampede Pass tubeless?

    June 29, 2020 at 7:43 am
    • Jan Heine

      We are working on making our narrower tires tubeless. The big issue is to do this safely while allowing pressures higher than 60 psi – and still keeping the tires easy to mount for those who prefer to run tubes.

      June 29, 2020 at 8:29 am
      • Brett

        Keep up the great work ! Your tires are now on 3 different wheelsets. Still sadly lacking a 26″ dual purpose knobbie in your lineup….

        June 29, 2020 at 3:04 pm
        • Brian Lankow

          I have emailed quite a few times asking about whether a 26″ knobby will be made. I have many bikes and half of them are 26″. I’d buy 6-8 tires right off the bat if you offered them.

          June 30, 2020 at 5:12 am
  • Matt Surch

    Great explainer, Jan! I’ve really enjoyed getting to know the all-purpose knobbies since their intro, and continue to be impressed by how totally not-annoying they are on rides with lots of pavement. the 650b x 48mm Juniper Ridge is my favourite tire for my drop bar bike that is for all the toughest terrain (including MTB trails), because it is not only predictable in terms of grip, but also totally fine on pavement. So I can piece whatever I want together without that nagging thought that I’m wasting all sorts of energy and/or wearing down my tire treads. The Junipers wear slowly, and evenly; lots of life in those lugs. When it comes to travel, like you, I love the 650b x 48mm Switchback Hills, because they feel good on long paved climbs up mountains, AND can also handle some pretty wild unpaved stuff if I make sure I ride them appropriately. And a final plug for the Snoqualmies: WOW! I’m amazed how fast these roll, and how they don’t really feel ‘big’. Heck of a fantastic all-rounder tire.

    June 29, 2020 at 7:46 am
  • Derek

    Do you plan on doing another roll down test some day to quantify the difference in resistance between the four casings? I know it’s a lot of work, but it would be much more helpful than you just saying that the tougher tires you offer are still pretty fast.

    June 29, 2020 at 8:00 am
    • Jan Heine

      We’ve been testing our casings, but small differences are inherently difficult to detect among the noise that you get with every experiment. When we started our roll-down tests, we were comparing Rolly-Polys with racing tires, and the difference was so huge that it was always statistically significant.

      While we can use sub-optimal tests as guidance for our internal R&D, we can’t publish them. Our tire tests were controversial even though they used ironclade scientific methods and rigorous statistical analysis. Imagine what would happen if we published something that wasn’t statistically significant. So we’re working on refining our methods – both for our own R&D and to get results we can publish. But that takes time…

      June 30, 2020 at 9:54 am
      • Derek

        Good to know. The mere fact that the differences are small enough to require refining your methods says a lot. Thank you.

        June 30, 2020 at 1:10 pm
  • jon norstog

    Last week I rode the Oregon Outback on extralight Switchback Hill tires. They performed quite well. I did get a snakebite puncture that ruined a tube, probably because I was running the tires at about 35 psi. I had a spare tube and figured I could replace it when I got to Prineville, mile 225. I put more air in the tires and had no more pinch flats.

    I was pretty beat when I got there, ended up camping in the wild and inadvertently ran over a mess of goatheads. I had more holes in my tubes than patches in my kit. As it turned out the bike shop was closed for a special ride that day (Saturday) and wouldn’t open until Tuesday. That was a little more of Prineville than I wanted so I gave up on the rest of the trip. Later, maybe.

    I did have a spare tire along with me, which I didn’t need. The extralights were a good ride and were predictable on fast gravel descents – they would break loose and slide but were easy to control and never washed out catastrophically.

    If I had set the tires up tubeless I could have finished the ride, and I think that will be the next project on this bike.

    What would be nice on this blog/newsletter is a guide for tubeless newbies, particularly to how much goop to put into each of the various tires.

    June 29, 2020 at 9:07 am
    • Jan Heine

      Hi Jon, Sounds like an adventure. The post about setting up tires tubeless is here.

      June 29, 2020 at 9:48 am
  • Ryan Francesconi

    In terms of the green bike above… i often do the mullet tire setup for the extra grip in the loose surfaces. For the long road sections, definitely the smooth rear is the main need, and the front has less of an impact on the perceived resistance. But in the loose I do find a lot more security with the knobby front. This really comes into play on trails where the surface quality can change very rapidly and you want to press your front tire into the ground on corners. The front slick is certainly doable, just a bit riskier, especially when you’re tired! Riding wide slicks on trails, as long as it isn’t wet, is generally fine, but you definitely slide around more and requires extra focus.

    I’ve found the mix and match setup to be the best compromise overall for those days where you really aren’t sure what you’re going to be riding through, but you are sure there will be a lot of pavement regardless.

    June 29, 2020 at 9:10 am
  • Andrew Huang

    Jan, Rene (i.e. the commercial entity),

    Let me voice my request for continued and expanded support for the 26″ line. I’m a small rider (been called an “ankle biter”, resemble that), and am not happy with frames that fit wide 700c tires (29ers). Moreover, I have been converting older MTBs into absolutely excellent gravel bikes that I will take anywhere. The recipe is quite simple:

    1 T good frame
    2 T Herse tires
    1 t drop bars
    1 T 9 or 10sp road brake/shifters
    1 t fender set

    This makes for a bike that I can take anywhere on impulse. Earlier this year, during a random short hill training ride (pick a hill, climb it, repeat) I noticed a single track going east and, what the hell, on the way down, I took it to wherever. That single track connected to three distinct MTB areas, which I finished up with a 50kph descent on pavement. Naches Pass gave me the freedom to impulsively choose any route.

    My call for expanding the 26″ line is that I would love to try the Steilacoom knobs in some of the looser trails. A few nights ago, on Rat Traps, I climbed up Cobb Trail in our foothills. Our region has encountered record breaking rainfall this year and the trail had deep erosion gullies following the trail that had to be crossed. One such crossing dismounted me when the rear tire just could not climb sideways up the wall. I’ve read the discussion on side knobs and perhaps they wouldn’t help. Perhaps nothing would help with on these dry hardpacked gullies. But they certainly would have helped in the deep sand that I encountered later that night.

    As a long time rider of fine tires – I wish I could still get Clement Campionato Del Mundo Seta sew ups, at 300g/28+mm, the fastest tire I’ve ridden – I really appreciate the seven pairs of Compass/Herse tires I’ve ridden. It’s a bad addiction.

    June 29, 2020 at 9:10 am
    • Jan Heine

      I wish I could still get Clement Campionato Del Mundo Seta sew ups, at 300g/28+mm

      You can get the even nicer FMB tubulars in 27 or 30 mm. Really, the world of bicycle tires has never been this good!

      June 30, 2020 at 9:56 am
  • Ed Devlin

    Are you going to make your 700 x 32 mm tire tubeless, as I would like to try a pair running tubeless, thx,

    June 29, 2020 at 9:42 am
  • Brian

    Been loving my rene herse tires, have them on all my bikes. I just swapped out older 35mm bon jon passes for 44mm extralights, and one of the tires just wont seal. The previous RH tires sealed easily. Only once I added sealant would they even begin to hold air, with lots sealant coming through sidewalls and almost to the tread. Never had this issue before.
    Even after adding 4oz of sealant, I’m still getting bubbles through sidewalls, and goes completely flat after 12 hours. The rear tire of the pair, was a piece of cake, no issues what so ever.

    June 29, 2020 at 1:06 pm
    • Jan Heine

      Usually, the issue is that the solids in the sealant weren’t well distributed – not enough shaking – before the sealant was put into the tire. It seems that you’ve already taken care of this…

      In very rare cases, the rubber coating of the casing is too thin to seal. Inevitably, there are slight variations in the rubber coating when the casing fabric is impregnated with rubber. Rather than make 99% of our tires heavier than necessary so that 100% seal reliably, we accept that <1% may be too thin and may not seal. These are the fastest tires if you run them with tubes (least rubber in the sidewalls), but if you try to run them tubeless, the sealant may weep out no matter what you do. (Coating the inside of the tire with liquid latex might work, but we haven't tried that.) Anyhow, that is covered under our warranty, so we'll replace the tire. Contact us via the warranty section of the web site.

      June 30, 2020 at 10:01 am
  • Stuart Fogg

    I love my Snoqualmie Pass Endurance tires. However I’m getting more flats than I want to put up with from city glass, so two questions:

    Would the knobby Hurricane Ridge do better due to greater distance between the road and the tube?

    Have you tried the Panaracer FlatAway aramid tire liners? They’re flexible and under 40 g so I’m wondering if they would reduce flats without seriously compromising the benefits of light, supple tires.


    June 29, 2020 at 1:11 pm
    • Jan Heine

      We haven’t really tested the flat-resistance of knobbies, but if the knobs can displace the debris rather than let it cut into the tire, it might work. On the downside, the space between the knobs has only a thin rubber coating, since it doesn’t wear. If you’re still getting flats from glass on the Endurance casing, I’d try the Endurance Plus. Or use tire wipers to remove the debris before it has a chance to puncture your tires. When I did that in racing on 21 mm tubulars, I went from a flat every other race to one flat in 6 years…

      June 30, 2020 at 10:03 am
      • Stuart Fogg

        Thank you. If the difference in rolling resistance is less then the noise in your testing I’m sure I’ll be happy with the Endurance Plus. I don’t think I’ll try tire wipers and knobbies together though 🙂

        June 30, 2020 at 10:54 am
        • Jan Heine

          The Endurance Plus will be slower – it’s the Endurance and Standard that are within the noise. The Endurance Plus really is different from our other tires – it’s about durability first and foremost. But if you get many flats, you also aren’t going fast!

          Yes, tire wipers and knobbies would be a bad combo! 😉

          June 30, 2020 at 11:20 am
    • John C. Wilson

      Have been using Snoqualmie standard for some time now in Chicago, home of broken glass. First rear tire did get exactly one flat and it was a glass puncture. That did not happen until tread was worn to 0.1mm thick, with casing texture showing through. Second rear is approaching that level of wear and no flats yet. Just Saturday rode through a whole field of glass, maybe a half dozen bottles, could not swing out and away because of traffic. With lesser tires would have stopped and waited, Snoqualmies no hesitation. The city bike is used in alleys, vacant lots, fields, rain and snow, all sorts of places where the glass cannot be seen or avoided. These tires do not even show any cuts.

      Different riders will have different experience. It may be worth trying pressures even lower than whatever you use now.

      June 30, 2020 at 2:43 pm
      • Stuart Fogg

        Thanks. I had been using around 45/45 psi F/R to support 195 lbs of me plus my bike. I recently heard about an online tire pressure calculator by SRAM which has a large set of parameters. It suggested 37/40 psi F/R so I’ll try that.

        June 30, 2020 at 7:13 pm
        • Jan Heine

          There are also different kinds of glass. The glass used for car windows that litters the road after an accident doesn’t have sharp corners – designed specifically that way to reduce the injury risk – so it rarely flattens your tires. Broken bottles are a different matter, they can be very sharp. Once the glass gets crunched by cars a few times, it also loses its sharpest edges, so the glass that is in places where cars don’t go (gutter, traffic islands, etc.) is sharpest and worst.

          June 30, 2020 at 11:43 pm
          • Stuart Fogg

            One day I didn’t see anything on the road but heard a crunch, then within seconds both tires were flat. Must have been a big, sharp bottle fragment. When I got home (I always carry 2 or 3 tubes) I noticed a few gashes in the treads and also picked 7 small shards of glass out of the 2 tires. Whatever bottles people throw on the streets of Oakland must hate air under pressure.

            July 1, 2020 at 3:27 pm
  • Steve Palincsar

    “The 38 mm Barlows are our widest ‘narrow’ tires. So their tread is a little thicker in the center to improve the durability. The 44 mm Snoqualmies are our narrowest ‘wide’ tires.”

    Now wait a minute – if 38mm is the widest “narrow” and 44mm is the narrowest “wide,” what does that make the 42mm Babyshoe Pass? Neither wide nor narrow, neither fish nor fowl? Or, perhaps “just right”?

    June 29, 2020 at 3:10 pm
    • Jan Heine

      The Babyshoe Pass is ‘just right’ of course! 😉

      June 30, 2020 at 10:04 am
  • Rick Thompson

    The Snoqualmie Pass EL (3 tires) always weeped sealant through the sidewalls run tubeless. I put up with it for the nice ride. My new Barlow Pass endurance were easy to set up and do not weep at all. The bike fits the 44 mm tires with fenders, but I get a little more clearance with the 38s and am giving up only a bit of plush in the ride. These are now my favorite road/gravel tire.

    June 29, 2020 at 3:43 pm
    • Jan Heine

      See the response above about the sealant weeping. Make sure to shake the sealant for 60 seconds – that is a very long time – before you put it in. I’ve set up about 60 Extralight tires tubeless, and never had sealant weep. However, if it does happen even with the solids in the sealant well shaken (not stirred!), we cover that under warranty.

      June 30, 2020 at 10:05 am
  • Pat

    When do the 26” knobbies come?

    June 29, 2020 at 5:15 pm
  • Scott F

    This has been asked many times and I’ll repeat it: When are we going to see a 26″ knobby? Decent quality 26″ tires are going the way of the dinosaurs no matter the number fo older MTBs out there. Please?

    June 29, 2020 at 5:57 pm
    • Harvey

      Another vote for 26″ knobby!!! Tons of 26″ bikes out there.

      June 30, 2020 at 5:16 am
  • JaBig

    Thank you for this guide. The only thing that puzzles me is when to decide on 700C vs 650B.

    June 29, 2020 at 7:40 pm
    • Jan Heine

      For the purposes of this guide, we assume you have wheels already. Otherwise, it depends mostly on the handling you want – 650B is more nimble, 700C more stable. We’ll do a post on wheels sizes soon.

      June 30, 2020 at 10:06 am
  • Andy Stow

    Your tire program has become very impressive. You’re not even a tire company, and by my count you have 50 models, with casing variations, and that’s not even counting sidewall colors!

    Any chance there’s a 16″ in the works? (only half kidding) I would love for my folding bike to roll faster. Or a 20″ would be fantastic on something like a Velo Orange Neutrino.

    June 30, 2020 at 7:20 am
    • Jan Heine

      Thank you for the compliment. Keeping many items that don’t sell very quickly in stock at all times without requiring a huge warehouse is a fun logistics puzzle.

      I’ve been fascinated with mini-velos ever since riding a C. S. Hirose in 2014 up Jikkoku Pass in Japan. It would be fun to do a 20″ tires some day – with the side benefit that it might be useful for competitive BMX riders, and some recumbents, too. The question is how wide it should be, and whether we make it knobby (which rules out BMX) or use our all-road tread pattern.

      June 30, 2020 at 8:36 pm
      • Jacob Musha

        I can answer that! I’d vote for an actual width of about 58mm/2.3″. The extra width would be appreciated with such small wheels compared to, say, the 26″ Rat Trap Pass.

        I ended up with some pretty awful tires on my Velo Orange Neutrino. If I remember correctly, they’re heavier than a RTP despite being the same width and much smaller in diameter. Still, the bike is quite interesting to ride and with a serious teardown it will just barely fit into a 62″ box for air travel.

        July 1, 2020 at 8:43 pm
  • Tommy

    Hi Jan,

    I run the Barlow Pass 38’s on my Specialized Diverge which specs indicate they can handle up to 42 mm tires.

    I see Ted King running the Snoqualmie Pass 44 mm on his Cannondale Super X which specs out at 40 mm tire clearance.

    I’d love to run a pair of the Snoqualmie’s. Can you shed any light on this?

    Thanks, Tommy

    June 30, 2020 at 12:55 pm
    • Jan Heine

      All specs include a margin of error. So the Super X lists a 40 mm maximum tire, but that includes some room for a wobbling wheel. If your wheels are true, you can run a wider tire. Also, the Snoqualmie Pass tire is listed at 44 mm, but that is for the most supple casing (Extralight), mounted tubeless on a wide rim, and inflated to max pressure – the widest it’ll ever get. On most rims, the Snoqualmies run more like 42-43 mm wide. It’ll fit fine on the Diverge.

      We now include the actual widths of our tires in the ‘Tech Specs’ on the web page for each tire, since the measurements do vary a bit. Most tires run under their specified size by a little for the reasons mentioned above, but there are a few exceptions. The Switchback Hill and Juniper Ridge 650B x 48s actually run more like 50-51 mm on most rims. We figured a little extra was fine, since bikes for wide 650B tires usually have plenty of clearance…

      June 30, 2020 at 1:01 pm
      • Stuart Fogg

        My Lynskey Backroads has a specified 45 mm maximum. My Snoqualmie Pass (Endurance) tires measure 46 to 47 mm at 35 to 45 psi with tubes on 30mm (inside) rims and still give 4 or 5 mm of clearance on both sides. If you ever offer a 48-622 tire I’m pretty sure it would fit my bike. I’m very sure 48-584 would fit but I’m not ready to buy another wheelset.

        July 1, 2020 at 3:38 pm

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