The Forgotten Pass

The Forgotten Pass

During the second day of our recent cyclotouring trip to the Aizu mountains in northern Japan, we embarked on a little adventure to discover the ‘Forgotten Pass.’

In the evening of the first day, we climbed a small mountain pass, but found to our surprise that a tunnel now traversed the ridge that we had intended to climb.

It was getting dark, so we went through the bore, eager to reach our ryokan (inn) with its hot bath and sumptuous dinner. “Let’s climb the old road tomorrow,” suggested Natsuko.

Over breakfast, we looked at the topographic maps of the area. I was delighted to notice that the maps categorize roads by their width. The narrowest category is ‘less than 1.5 m (5 feet) wide.’ Only the tiny Japanese minitrucks might just barely fit there. That is great information when choosing routes for cyclotouring! But for this ride, we had little to go by – the map hadn’t been updated since the tunnel was built. It still showed a road that was wide enough for 1-2 cars all the way across the pass.

The tunnel was built 10 years ago – as evidenced by a plaque on the portal – and at first, the old road looked in good shape.

But the new pavement didn’t last long. The road to the pass soon turned into a narrow, overgrown gravel path, with just a little pavement poking through once in a while. I was surprised how quickly the road had been reclaimed by nature once maintenance had ceased. It was fun to explore this ‘Forgotten Pass,’ as we named it. The autumn colors provided a beautiful backdrop for our ride, and without pavement or even gravel, we felt truly immersed in the scenery.
Through the trees, we could see fresh snow on the mountains around us.

It was hard to believe that this was a ‘real’ road just a decade ago. The curves were still lined with mirrors to see around the corner and check whether other traffic was approaching. One is barely visible in the center of the photo. A decade of typhoon rains had turned the mirrors completely blind. Not that we needed mirrors – the ‘Forgotten Pass’ was deserted.

Road signs warning of falling rocks had fared better than the mirrors: They looked almost new. We had to laugh at this one: The entire road was covered with soil and rocks. There was no doubt that a lot of rocks had fallen during the last ten years.

The ‘road’ became narrower and rougher, until it was little more than a hiking trail. Judging from the tracks in the soft soil, it was frequented only by deer.

Then we reached the ‘Forgotten Pass.’ The slope was less steep here, and the road was in better shape. Once, there was a parking lot with a trailhead to hiking trails. A sign still reminded visitors that they were entering public forests here.

It was a little easier cycling on the downhill. Dry leaves rustled under our tires. In places we had to portage our bikes where big rocks had fallen onto the road.

And then we were on the new road again, which seemed deliciously smooth and fast after our off-pavement adventure. To think that in ten years’ time, this road would look like the mountain trail we just came down, if it wasn’t maintained continuously!

The ‘Forgotten Pass’ was a poignant reminder that our presence in these mountains is ephemeral. We are only visitors, grateful that we can come here, but the mountains only belong to themselves.

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Comments (9)

  • Rod Bruckdorfer

    I enjoyed reading about the “Forgotten Pass”. Your adventure was nicely told and the photos add to the story.

    November 25, 2017 at 5:26 am
  • azorch

    Out of all the adventures you’ve reported, this is by far my favorite. Thanks for sharing this!

    November 25, 2017 at 6:14 am
  • Stuart Fogg

    Thanks for the story! I’m curious if you speak or read Japanese, or if Natsuko translates, or if people you meet can communicate in English.

    November 25, 2017 at 6:13 pm
    • Jan Heine, Editor, Bicycle Quarterly

      I speak a little Japanese, but only enough to understand the topic of conversation, rather than the details. Natsuko does a great job translating when it’s important, but otherwise, I am on my own… which is an incentive to learn more!

      November 25, 2017 at 7:51 pm
  • Monty

    Thank you Jan, I love reading your adventures.

    November 26, 2017 at 2:53 pm
  • alexanderluthier

    I think the next Compass rough-terrain tire should be called “The Forgotten Pass”

    November 26, 2017 at 6:11 pm
  • David Pearce

    Nice essay! –Happy Holidays, everyone!

    November 27, 2017 at 6:50 pm
  • David Pearce

    I’ve searched around all the departments here, this blog, Compass Cycles, BQ, etc. I see nothing about you selling a 2018 Bicycle Quarterly Calendar. Something tells me you haven’t done it (even though you said you wanted to!). If you have done it, I’d buy at least four. It’s been like, two years in a row now without a calendar. I miss it, big time!

    November 27, 2017 at 7:03 pm
    • Jan Heine, Editor, Bicycle Quarterly

      We’d love to do a calendar, but we are too small to do it on our own. In the past, we worked with a big publisher. However, they usually do calendars in a maximum of 3-year runs (if they are successful). Inevitably, sales to non-enthusiasts drop off after 3 years… and that is what ended the BQ calendars. We’ve floated some new ideas with the publisher, and hopefully, there will be a BQ calendar again in the future, but not as early as 2018.

      November 28, 2017 at 1:12 pm

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