Hanging Edelux II Headlights

Hanging Edelux II Headlights

When the new Edelux II headlights came out a little over a year ago, they were another big step forward in lighting technology. Compared to the first Edelux, the new version features a much wider and more evenly lit beam. Compared to older halogen headlights, the difference is night and day. (Sorry for the pun.)
At first, the Edelux II was available only for “standing” attachments. This works well if you mount your light on the fork crown or with a rack designed for such a light (like the Compass CP1 rack), but if you prefer to mount your light under the handlebars or on a custom rack, the hanging attachments has several advantages.
It took a while to redesign the Edelux II for hanging attachment, but we are glad to report that the first production samples have arrived. There are two versions:
The first features the standard on/off switch, the standard co-axial wire and a second connector for a taillight. The taillight connector is different from the standing Edelux, in that it uses a screw that attaches a connector, rather than a plug-in connector (see photo below).  The screw makes sure no water can enter through the connector. (The screw should always be installed, even if no taillight is attached.)
The second version is intended for bikes with separate light switches. This version has no switch, no wire and only a screw connector to attach the wire from the generator hub. (Both versions have the “Ground” connected to the light’s housing.)
At first, I was surprised that there wasn’t a single-strand wire as on the previous hanging Edelux lights, but I now realize the connector is better: Since most custom bikes will use wiring that runs inside the fork blades, fenders and/or rack tubes, having a screw connector allows you to remove the light without disturbing the wires.
The hanging Edelux II does not have a light sensor – if you use a handlebar bag, the bag shades the light, and the sensor always would turn the light on. Otherwise, they are functionally identical to the standing versions.
I am looking forward to installing these lights on my next bike. We now have a very limited quantity in stock. More will arrive, but we don’t know when. Eventually, they will become regular products in the Compass Bicycles line.
For a photo of this light installed on a bike, see Anton Tutter’s photos.
Click here for more information or to order.

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Comments (22)

  • mateo scoggins

    Quick question, Jan. I want to buy the new hanging Edelux for a “special” install, where I will route wires myself and install a switch on the stem, but I will also want to run a tail light. The write-up kind of makes it sound like there is no way to hook up a tailight to this new system…?
    Thanks for your input.

    May 8, 2015 at 6:45 am
    • Jan Heine, Editor, Bicycle Quarterly

      The taillight is connected directly to the switch, rather than to the headlight. You run both lights in a parallel circuit. This is much easier than trying to run wires to and from the headlight.

      May 8, 2015 at 7:13 am
    • somervillebikes

      Jan is correct– when installing a separate switch, you splice the headlight and taillight together (in parallel), and run them both off of the switch.

      May 8, 2015 at 7:30 am
  • Johan Larsson

    Hmm, esthetically that was a quite unfortunate placement of the connector. Maybe functionally too – thinking of water, and the less screws and bolts used to hold things together, the smaller risk for things to come loose. I also just assumed, that with a fixed wire like the previous version you opened up the lamp and unscrew the wire there, rather than “disturbing the wires” inside the fork leg? Anyway, it’s no big deal… for my upcoming bike I will get one of these. Do you know if the lamp will be available in Europe, directly or on request from a retailer?

    May 8, 2015 at 7:55 am
    • Jan Heine, Editor, Bicycle Quarterly

      I actually like the screw connector. Put a dab of conductive grease on the screw, and it will seal well, and since there is no load on the screw, it won’t come loose. And if you need to take the light off, it’s easy.

      May 8, 2015 at 8:36 am
      • John Duval

        Regular grease works perfectly for electrical connections and is a lot less mess. The electrical industry has used regular grease forever in switches and connections, first because it won’t short and bridge across adjacent contacts, and second because it is a better lube, and it still prevents corrosion.
        As a side note: if you have tried to connect a single wire braze on tail light only to find you have an insulated headset, you don’t need to run a second wire. Take a piece of brass shim stock, cut a square about 1-1/8″, grease it up liberally (regular grease), and slide it inside your head tube. It acts as a sliding contact against the steer tube to ground the fork to the frame.

        May 9, 2015 at 9:17 am
        • Jan Heine, Editor, Bicycle Quarterly

          John, the brass shim in the head tube to provide contact is a great idea. The alternative is to remove the headset cup and sand off the anodizing. (Anodized headset cups don’t conduct electricity, at least at the low voltages we are dealing with.)

          May 9, 2015 at 10:00 am
      • somervillebikes

        If the headset is non-conductive, it’s a non-issue if your bike has bar-end shifters, which will be grounded to the fork via the handlebars. Ground is then transmitted by the cables to the front and rear derailleurs, providing ground to the rest of the frame.

        May 9, 2015 at 3:34 pm
  • aztris

    Very timely. I’m finishing a build within the next week and the only remaining part I needed was a light.
    Just placed an order.

    May 8, 2015 at 7:56 am
  • teamdarb

    Silly question: What do you use to polish the no glare lens? Mine suffer from eastern winter salt.

    May 8, 2015 at 8:17 am
    • Jan Heine, Editor, Bicycle Quarterly

      There are many polishing compounds that work on glass… Fortunately, I haven’t had to polish mine yet, but I used to sand and polish my cycling glasses from time to time to remove scratches. I used an automotive polish as the last step, since it’s intended to create a mirror shine.

      May 8, 2015 at 8:38 am
  • Chad

    This is great timing for me. I’m putting together my first low trail, 650b bike (after learning alot from this blog and Bicycle Quarterly) and a light is next on the shopping list. For the version without a switch, do you know of any switches designed specifically for this application? I realize there are numerous switches that would work from a number of electrical component suppliers, but if you’ve had experience with some that either worked particularly well, or otherwise, it would be great to hear. I will be using a quill stem and therefore cannot use the rotary switch on the stem like I’ve seen used before. If I wasn’t using bar end shifters I’d consider a simple flush mounted push button in the bar end plug.

    May 8, 2015 at 12:10 pm
    • Jan Heine, Editor, Bicycle Quarterly

      There was an article a few years ago on the first switch I made for my Urban Bike. It has a standard rotating switch, but the parts that hold it in the steerer are custom-machined. Hahn Rossman uses the same design on his custom randonneur bikes. I believe Boulder Bicycles offers a retrofit switch, too.

      May 8, 2015 at 12:39 pm
  • cpkestate

    this is amazing…. the sexond version is just what I wanted…
    I’m surprised at how kind you are. aren’t these kind of variation/offering does not expand the size of the whole market but increase the total production cost? i’m not good at putting it into words…
    however, from the perspective of a consumer, I can’t be happier : )

    May 9, 2015 at 2:37 am
    • Jan Heine, Editor, Bicycle Quarterly

      It took a lot of work to convince Schmidt to do these… I am grateful that they are making these as a special favor to us. So your thanks should be directed to them. You are right, compared to the standard version, the hanging ones required a lot of development, and the numbers will be tiny.

      May 9, 2015 at 6:56 am
      • cpkestate

        Once I inquire SON about a modified version of delux hub and they asked for 100 hub as minimal order.. I wanted a hub with SON 28 hubshell with delux internals and axle configuration(allumunium w/ stainless ends) in 28h and connector-less. I coukd totally understood their reason, pretty confident to sell 100, but it was too much of an investment for my tiny business.
        It might disturb their manufacturing schedule and cost them somehow to produce these edelux version, but your company must be carrying the investment risk. And it won’t sell like hot cakes due to the peculiarity of the item.

        May 9, 2015 at 9:53 am
        • Jan Heine, Editor, Bicycle Quarterly

          The Delux Wide-Body is pretty much what you want – wider flange spacing (actually quite a bit wider yet than the SON28) – albeit with a steel axle. I find that the small weight penalty is worth the reduced worry about axles breaking, and it also might prolong bearing life, since it flexes less.

          May 9, 2015 at 10:01 am
  • Michael

    Will you all be carrying the new Schmidt seatpost dyno tail light?

    May 9, 2015 at 11:32 am
      • Jan Heine, Editor, Bicycle Quarterly

        We currently don’t have plans to sell the SON taillight. It’s not clear to me how you’ll run the wires through the seatpost. If you run the wire externally to the headlight, you have a long wire that risks getting snagged and broken. In that case, it may be better to use a battery-powered taillight.
        We do sell the Compass taillight that mounts to a dedicated braze-on, as well as two excellent fender-mount lights from Busch & Müller.

        May 9, 2015 at 11:42 am
  • Michael

    Do the hanging E2s have the same beam pattern, uniform light distribution/brightness and beam quality as the upright E2s?

    May 12, 2015 at 10:59 pm

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